Wine selections: the Beverage Dynamics National Retailer Wine Panel recommends a lineup of top quality/value chardonnays.(Retailer)

CHARDONNNAY

FIVE STARS

***** (96) Ramey Cellars 2001 Russian River Chardonnay (California). Even though the expression of fruit screams Russian River, it still leads to a very Burgundian character of lush flavors with great acidity. ($35)

***** (95) Shafer 2002 Red Shoulders Ranch Chardonnay (California). Big, lush weighty wine with pear, golden apple, honeysuckle and honey; well-balanced deep core of fruit that appeals to a wide range of wine drinkers. ($38)

***** (94) Chateau Souverain 2001 Winemakcrs Reserve Russian River Chardonnay (California). Tropical fruit with hints of orange blossoms and sur lies aging adding delightful nuances of vanilla; a real treat ($26)

***** (94) Landmark 2001 Overlook Chardonnay (California). A consistenly awesome chardonnay, in every way; great with lobster. ($28)

***** (94) Hartford Court 2001 Stone Cote Vineyard Chardonnay (California). Aromas of lanolin, nectarine, baked pear and minerals with hints of red apple; very Chablisesque in nose and palate. ($35)

***** (94) Cloudy Bay 2003 Chardonnay (Marlborough, New Zealand). Bold and rich with nice spice and nutty notes adding to the pretty ripe pear, mango and apricot fruit flavors; beautifully balanced with a long, rich finish. ($28)

***** (93) Chateau Rully, Mercurey Blanc 2002 (France). Sourced from 50% Premier Cru vineyards in the fantastic 2002 vintage, this wine explodes on the palate with layers of bright citrus, apples, ripe pears and just a hint of creamy vanilla; medium-bodied, this wine rivals many classified growths from more famous villages in the Cotes de Beaune; pairs with crab imperial. ($25)

***** (93) Villa Mt Eden 2001 Grand Reserve Chardonnay California). Big and lush with substantial weight; deep ripe pear fruit that's folded into a good balance and structure; stands up to wines three times the price; a good buy. ($18)

***** (93) Rombauer 2002 Carneros Chardonnay (California). Rich chardonnay fruit and a creamy texture surrounded by well-balanced acidity and oak; an outstanding effort. ($28)

***** (93) Chappellet 2001 Chardonnay (California). From a winery, whose claim to fame is their cabernet, they have really refined their whites; a wine more reminiscent of a White Burgundy, with golden straw tones and hints of apples and pears in the nose with well defined flavors that display a creamy elegance and a finish that stays on long after you have swallowed. ($15)

***** (93) Domaine Martelet de Cherisey Puligny-Montrachet Hameau de Blagny Premier Cru 2002 (France). Fruit-forward and oily; a very full and lush Puligny. ($65)

***** (93) Stag's Leap Wine Cellars 2002 Arcadia Chardonnay (California). Chablis style from California; very linear lines, great balance and length. ($50)

***** 0(92) Domaine Fevre Chablis Fourchaume-Vaulorent Permier Cru 2002(France). A stellar Chablis vintage with the clean lines that one would expect, with apples and mineral nuances. ($40) Clicquot, Inc.

***** (92) Martin Ray 2001 Chardonnay …